Traditional Esan Hairstyles (Hairdo) and Their Cultural Meanings

Image by Esanland.org-Esan Hairdo

By Williams Patrick Praise

Abstract

This paper explores the cultural symbolism, social functions, and aesthetic significance of traditional hairstyles among the Esan people of Edo State, Nigeria. Hair, beyond its biological function, serves as a potent marker of identity, beauty, spirituality, and social belonging in Esan society. The study investigates how traditional hairstyles communicate messages about age, gender, marital status, class, and ritual status. Drawing on ethnographic accounts, oral traditions, and comparative cultural analysis, the paper situates Esan hair practices within the wider African philosophy of aesthetics and symbolism. It highlights how traditional Esan hairdressing — characterized by intricate plaits, ornaments, and symbolic patterns — reinforces communal values and preserves historical consciousness. Furthermore, the paper examines the transformation of these styles under colonial and modern influences, analyzing how globalization and Christianity have redefined notions of beauty and cultural pride. By documenting the artistry and meanings of Esan hair traditions, the paper contributes to cultural preservation and the growing scholarship on African indigenous aesthetics.

Introduction

2.1 Overview of Esanland

Esanland, located in the central part of Edo State in southern Nigeria, comprises several autonomous kingdoms collectively known as Esan. Each kingdom — such as Igueben: Ebelle, Amahor, Ẹwossa, Udo, Ekpon, Ugiogba, Ugun, Okalo, Uromi: Uzea, Irrua: Ugbegun, Opoji, Idoa, Ewu, Ekpoma: Iruekpen, Ogwa, Ukhun, Egoro, okalo. Ubiaja: Ewohimi, Emulu, Ohordua, Efeku-Island, Ẹwatto, Okhuesan, Urhohi, Orowa, Ugboha, Oria, lllushi, Onogholo, — maintains unique variations of language, customs, and rituals that together form a shared cultural identity. Esan society is historically agrarian, with deep communal values centered on kinship, spirituality, and artistry. Within this framework, aesthetics occupies a vital place; material and bodily expressions such as dressing, dance, and hair serve as a means of cultural communication.

2.2 Cultural Relevance of Hair in African Societies

Across Africa, hair is not merely ornamental but communicative. As Esiaba Irobi (1990) observes, “the head is the crown of the body, and hair its symbol of identity.” Among African peoples, hairstyles signify social and spiritual dimensions — maturity, status, fertility, mourning, or celebration. For the Esan, hair embodies uhunmwun (selfhood), functioning as both art and language. Thus, hairdressing is embedded in the philosophy that beauty is moral, social, and spiritual.

2.3 Research Objectives and Methodology

This study aims to:

Document and describe traditional Esan hairstyles.
Analyze the symbolic meanings attached to different styles.
Examine the transformations resulting from modernization.

The analysis draws from ethnographic observation, oral narratives from Esan elders and hairdressers (Ihianlen), and comparative literature on African aesthetics.

Historical Background of Esanland

3.1 Origin and Settlement of the Esan People

The Esan trace their ancestry to migrations from Benin Kingdom during the fifteenth century, following political and social upheavals under the Oba’s rule. Over time, these migrants established independent chiefdoms governed by the Onojie (king). Despite political autonomy, cultural continuity with Benin remained, especially in arts, religion, and hairstyles.

3.2 Socio-Cultural Identity and Traditional Institutions

Esan society is organized around lineage groups, age grades, and religious institutions. Social order is reinforced through aesthetic expressions — including hairstyles — that symbolize respect, maturity, and adherence to custom. Traditional festivals such as Igbabonelimhin (the acrobatic masquerade) also feature distinctive hair arrangements symbolizing spiritual energy and communal pride.

Symbolism of Hair in Esan Culture

4.1 Hair as Identity and Status Marker

In Esan tradition, hair communicates individuality within community. The elaborate styles worn by women indicate marital status, wealth, and aesthetic discipline. Married women, for instance, often adorn sculpted plaits tied with threads or cowries, symbolizing domestic responsibility and fertility.

4.2 Hair and Gender Expression

Men’s hairstyles are typically simpler, involving shaved patterns or short tufts that reflect maturity and discipline. Among youths, certain patterns, such as the Uden cut, were associated with virility and courage. Hair thus functions as a visual language of gender identity.

4.3 Hair in Rites of Passage and Spiritual Symbolism

Hair plays a sacred role in Esan rituals — from birth and initiation to death. Infants’ first hair cutting (ihuanlen) marks entry into society. During initiation into adulthood or marriage, hair is dressed elaborately to symbolize purity, readiness, and rebirth. Conversely, mourners often shave their heads to signify humility and spiritual renewal.

Traditional Esan Hairstyles

5.1 Classification of Hairstyles

Traditional Esan hairstyles can be grouped into:

Ceremonial styles (for marriage, festivals, coronations)
Everyday styles (for social or domestic life)
Ritual or symbolic styles (for initiation, mourning, or priesthood)

5.2 Hairstyles for Women

Among women, artistry and symbolism converge. Common styles include:

Eto-uhunmwun – A plaited crown-like design representing dignity and marital respect.

Image by Esanland.org-Eto-uhunmwun
Ikpakpa – Small, tight plaits coiled upward; associated with youthful beauty.

Image by Esanland.org-Ikpakpa
Okuku – A raised coiffure with thread binding and coral beads; worn by brides and titled women.
Image by Esanland.org-Okuku
Eto-Ojie – Reserved for royal women; it features sculptural height symbolizing authority.
Image by Esanland.org- Eto-Ojie

5.3 Hairstyles for Men

Men’s hairstyles often symbolized occupation and status. Warriors or hunters wore short shaved patterns for mobility, while elders maintained simple low cuts as signs of wisdom and modesty.

5.4 Ceremonial and Ritual Hairstyles

During festivals such as Igbabonelimhin, dancers often wear symbolic hairstyles adorned with palm fiber or chalk to denote purity and spiritual energy. These designs, ephemeral yet meaningful, reflect the Esan belief that beauty harmonizes the physical and metaphysical.

Tools, Techniques, and Materials

6.1 Indigenous Hairdressing Practices

Hairdressing was an inherited skill, often taught from mother to daughter. Wooden combs (ukpakpa), threads, palm oil, and clay served both aesthetic and therapeutic functions.

6.2 Natural Materials and Symbolic Ornamentation

Beads, cowries, and dyes (from uhen tree bark) enhanced beauty and signified status. The use of red coral, linked to Benin influence, represented vitality and wealth.

The Role of the Hairdresser (Ihianlen)

7.1 The Hairdresser as Artist and Custodian of Culture

The Ihianlen was more than a stylist — she was a cultural historian. Her hands translated ancestral memory into living art. She performed social and spiritual duties, such as preparing brides or initiates, making her integral to Esan cultural continuity.

7.2 Socialization and Transmission of Cultural Knowledge

Hairdressing sessions functioned as communal gatherings for storytelling, song, and moral education, reinforcing gender roles and social values.

Modern Influences and Cultural Adaptation

8.1 Impact of Colonialism and Christianity

Colonial education and missionary influence discouraged indigenous styles, branding them “pagan.” Western hairstyles and wigs became symbols of modernity, gradually eroding traditional meanings.

8.2 Contemporary Modifications and Continuity

Despite modernization, traditional motifs persist in cultural festivals and weddings. Contemporary stylists now reinterpret ancient forms using synthetic materials, preserving aesthetic codes while adapting to modern taste.

8.3 Cultural Revitalization and Heritage Preservation

Esan cultural groups and museums increasingly document traditional hair art as part of broader heritage preservation, emphasizing that “to preserve hair art is to preserve identity.”

Comparative Insights

9.1 Within the Edo Cultural Sphere

Esan hairstyles share roots with Benin’s okuku style but differ in symbolism. While Benin’s coiffure emphasized royalty, Esan’s reflects communal and moral aesthetics.

9.2 In the Wider African Context

Across Africa — among Yoruba, Igbo, Akan, and Zulu — hair operates as a visual language of identity. Esan hair culture thus participates in a continental aesthetic philosophy that sees beauty as ethical and communal.

Conclusion

Traditional Esan hairstyles, rich in symbolism and artistry, constitute more than fashion — they are texts of identity, spirituality, and social order. They embody the Esan worldview that beauty is harmony between self, society, and spirit. Through hair, Esan people inscribe their moral and aesthetic philosophies on the body, perpetuating memory and belonging. Modern influences have altered these traditions, yet the cultural essence persists through adaptation and revival movements. The study underscores the importance of documenting and revitalizing Esan hair culture as part of Nigeria’s intangible heritage, affirming that the art of hairdressing remains a living testimony to Esan creativity and philosophy of beauty.

References (APA Style)

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